Skip to Content
  
Advanced Search
Home > Home Decorating > Hang a Heavy Mirror on Drywall

< Previous | Next >

Hang a Heavy Mirror on Drywall
popular

8 out of 10 stars (9 votes)

 

Hang a Heavy Mirror on Drywall

Although a heavy framed mirror (35 to 100 lbs.) hangs on a wall in much the same way as a lighter one, there are a couple of important differences. All hardware (wire and its attachment hardware, and hangers) must be heavy-duty and rated to support the weight of the mirror in drywall applications. Unless you are nailing a hanger into a wall stud, you must use two hangers and medium- to heavy-duty wall anchors rather than the familiar light-duty plastic anchors. Typically you want a mirror to hang flatter against the wall than a painting or other artwork, so the wire is attached to the mirror frame closer to the top and the picture wire is more taut than is typical for artwork. Take the following steps to assure that your mirror hangs safely, level, and right where you want it.
  • Caution: If your mirror weighs more than 100 pounds, contact the anchor manufacturer for advice on the type and number of anchors to use. Consult with your local True Value dealer or with a frame or glass shop regarding an appropriate wire.
Materials Needed:
  • Bathroom scale
  • Heavy-duty mirror/picture wire
  • Ruler or tape measure
  • Wire cutters
  • 2 Heavy-duty D-rings
  • Tape (e.g., vinyl electrical)
  • Pencil
  • 2-foot spirit level
  • Drill and bits
  • Picture hangers or hollow-wall anchors
  • Screwdriver
  • Hammer

1. Weigh the Mirror: Stand on a bathroom scale while holding the mirror, and again without holding it. The difference between the two weights will be the approximate weight of the mirror. All wire and other hanging hardware, which may be available in kit form, must have an adequate rating for this weight.

2. Attach D Rings: Use heavy-duty D-rings to attach the picture wire to the mirror frame. Position one ring on each side of the frame about one-fifth the distance from the top corner to the bottom of the frame. Tilt the top of the ring inward as close to a 45-degree angle as possible while still assuring that both mounting screws will enter solid wood. Mark the mounting holes on the frame. Drill 3/32-in. pilot holes, and secure the rings with screws.


3. Attach Wire to first D Ring: Use a length of heavy-duty mirror wire that is about three times the width of the frame. (This wire is thicker and much stronger than standard picture wire, which is typically rated for maximum loads from only 10 to 35 pounds.) Attach an end of the wire to one ring as shown. This knot-and twist approach is much less likely to unravel under a heavy load than a simple twist.


  • Tip: After the wire is fully twisted, cut off any excess and wrap electrical tape around the usually frayed and sharp end of the wire. This keeps it from unraveling and protects your fingers.

4. Attach Wire to Second D Ring: Feed the loose end of the wire through the other D-ring and back to the first D-ring as shown, leaving just enough slack so that dimension "A" is about one-sixth of the frame width. Secure it the same way as in Step 3.
5. Determine Mirror Location: Very lightly mark a level line on the wall in pencil for the frame's top edge. Mark the mirror's center point on that line and measure out to the left and right of that mark a distance equal to one-quarter of the distance between the D rings. Lightly pencil two vertical lines at these quarter-points. (Your two hangers will be located somewhere along these vertical lines.)

  • Tip: Unlike a standard single-hanger installation, you cannot adjust the frame for level by moving it to the left or right. If the hooks are level the frame will be level, so carefully measure down from a level ceiling or use a spirit level accurately.

6. Determine Hanger Height: This is a two-step process. First, support the mirror by its wire at the two points "C" and "D" (hook the wire over the heads of a couple large bolts or a couple screwdrivers) and raise it just slightly off the floor. With all the weight pulling the wire taut, have a helper measure the distance from the wire to the top of the frame ("B") at both points "C" and "D". Second, transfer that measurement to the wall by measuring down each vertical line from the level horizontal line you penciled in Step 4.
  • Tip: If you get two different measurements at "C" and "D", add the two figures and divide by two for an average "B" dimension.

7. Install the Hangers: If the hanger happens to fall over a stud, nail a standard heavy-duty picture hook on the line so its hook is at the proper height. Otherwise, install a heavy-duty hollow wall anchor at each location and let the screw protrude 1/4 inch for the wire to hang on. Use an anchor with an adequate rating for the weight of your mirror and choose a type that does not require that the screw be driven tight for the anchor to be firmly attached. Examples include clamping anchors (such as expansion bolts) and threaded plastic anchors. Each of these anchors have the required high-tensile pullout values (check package labels).
  • Tip: One problem with using an anchor screw to support the wire is that the screws (or bolts) that come with (or are typically used with) such anchors do not have heads that form a lip large enough to hook the wire over safely. If so, replace the screw or bolt with a panhead or other large-headed screw or bolt.

8. Hang Your Mirror: At this point you can erase your pencil lines and hang the mirror. With a helper, lift the mirror up onto the hangers (or screw heads). Peek behind the mirror to make sure the wire is seated correctly on each hanger. Move the mirror to the left or right to the planned position. 

< Previous | Next >



Hits: 1032
Added: Fri Oct 11 2002
Last Modified: Thu Mar 06 2008

Review It Rate It Bookmark It Report It Send To A Friend!