Paint or Stain Fencing
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Protect and beautify your fence with a coat of paint every four to five years. If you let it go much longer than that, you'll need more preparation work, and prep is the hardest part of the job! In fact, it's a good idea to do a yearly cleaning and touch-up of peeling areas. If your wood fence is unfinished or stained, consider using stain or solid-color stain instead of paint. While stain must be reapplied more often than paint, it involves less preparation both the first time and subsequent times. Here is the basic information you need to paint or stain wood fencing and to paint chain-link fencing. Materials
List:
1. Prepare the Ground: Mow, rake, weed, or spray a weed killer along the base of the fence to get rid of any leaves, grass, or weeds that block access to the fence or that will contaminate your applicator. Place a drop cloth below or adjacent to the fence to catch debris and paint drips or overspray. 2. Prepare
Wood Fence: As with all painting jobs, preparation
is key to good-looking and long-lasting results. Clean,
scrape, and sand. Use a power washer (a rental or low-cost
homeowner's variety will do nicely) to clean the fence
and blast off loose paint. Or you can use a hose with
a power nozzle, a scrub brush, and a detergent-water
solution. Finish removing loose paint using paint scrapers.
Use a power sander to blend any raised paint edges into
the surrounding areas. Sponge a 50-50 household bleach-water
solution on any mold or mildew spots (black, gray, or
green) to kill the organism, or it will grow back.
4.
Paint/Stain Wood: Choose a suitable applicator.
To paint large, flat surfaces use a roller, pad, or
sprayer. If you choose a sprayer, use the airless model
shown or rent a high-volume low-pressure (HVLP) sprayer,
which offers greater control with less overspray. Whatever
principal applicator you choose, you'll need a brush
to catch drips or work paint into some areas. Use a
stain brush, which holds more finish with less dripping,
for watery stains.
5.
Paint Chain-Link: Apply paint liberally to chain-link
with a 1 1/2-in. nap roller; roll slowly at a 45-degree
angle to the chain weave. Then have a helper follow
up with a nearly dry roller. Use a brush to paint the
posts, horizontal supports, gates, and other hardware
to complete each section. Or, to eliminate the dripping
associated with rollers and brushes, apply two light
coats with a sprayer and follow up as needed with a
brush.
6. Clean Equipment: Discard the used roller sleeve when the job is done, and clean the roller frame and pan with the appropriate solvent (water or paint thinner, depending on the type of paint used). Follow the manufacturer's instructions for a thorough cleaning of spray equipment. |
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Added: Mon Oct 14 2002
Last Modified: Tue Feb 27 2007
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4.
Paint/Stain Wood: Choose a suitable applicator.
To paint large, flat surfaces use a roller, pad, or
sprayer. If you choose a sprayer, use the airless model
shown or rent a high-volume low-pressure (HVLP) sprayer,
which offers greater control with less overspray. Whatever
principal applicator you choose, you'll need a brush
to catch drips or work paint into some areas. Use a
stain brush, which holds more finish with less dripping,
for watery stains.
5.
Paint Chain-Link: Apply paint liberally to chain-link
with a 1 1/2-in. nap roller; roll slowly at a 45-degree
angle to the chain weave. Then have a helper follow
up with a nearly dry roller. Use a brush to paint the
posts, horizontal supports, gates, and other hardware
to complete each section. Or, to eliminate the dripping
associated with rollers and brushes, apply two light
coats with a sprayer and follow up as needed with a
brush.